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Ανεμοδόχη · Anemodochi · Vrysteni harbour

Aboard at nine. Rail down by ten.

Four boats out of the west quay at Vrysteni, six to ten people on each, and after the headland there is nothing to do until half six.

The fleet
Foura sloop, a trehandiri, a cruiser, a cat
The day
09:00–18:30or three hours from 18:00
From
€520the whole boat, for the day

Το πρόγραμμα · the day, hour by hour

Nine and a half hours, and only one of them is decided in advance.

The times below are a normal August day, on any of the four. Where we anchor depends on the wind that morning, and the skipper will tell you the truth about it before you pay anything.

  1. 09:00DEP
    0.0 M

    Leave the west quay at Vrysteni

    Come to the blue-painted bollard, not the ferry ramp. Coffee is on board. Bring a hat, a towel and shoes you can get wet. Everything else is on the boat already.

    Thick weathered ropes running through wooden blocks and pulleys on a sailing boat's deck.
    Sheets and blocks on the coachroof. You are welcome to pull on them; nobody has to.
  2. 10:20287°
    4.2 M

    Round the headland, cut the engine

    Twenty minutes of motoring, then the sails go up and the noise stops. This is the part people remember, and it is also the part that decides the rest of the day: on the far side you can feel exactly how much wind there is.

    A bare rocky headland dropping into deep blue open sea under a cloudless sky.
    The headland. On a hard north day the water on the other side of it is a different colour.
  3. 11:30310°
    3.6 M

    Anchor in the first cove and swim

    Ninety minutes at anchor in about four metres of water. There is a ladder and there are masks on board. The cove is chosen on the morning — there are five of them and the wind picks which one.

    The wide foredeck of a sailing boat lying at anchor over deep blue water, with a rocky coast beyond.
    Anchored under the pines. From the water the boat looks a long way off; it is thirty metres.
  4. 13:15AT ANCHOR
    0.0 M

    Lunch on board, still at anchor

    Bread, tomatoes, cheese, olives, whatever fruit was good that morning, and a fish if the quay had one. Beer, wine and water are in the cool box and are included in the price — there is no bar bill at the end.

    Nobody has ever asked me to hurry this part, and I would not. Yiannis, skipper · Ανεμοδόχη
  5. 15:00158°
    5.1 M

    Move to the second cove

    An hour under sail if there is any wind at all, then a shorter stop — usually the one with the cave you can swim into, unless there is any swell running, in which case we do not go near it.

    A small white boat lying in a sheltered turquoise cove enclosed by green wooded hills.
    The second cove is greener and colder. People who liked the first one usually prefer this.
  6. 18:30104°
    9.4 M

    Back on the same bollard

    Downwind all the way home, which is the easy leg and the one where everyone falls asleep on the foredeck. Alongside by half six, in time to eat in the harbour.

    Aerial view of a deep blue and green bay with a small settlement on the shoreline.
    Coming back in. The harbour is behind the low point on the right.

Ο στόλος · the four boats

Four boats, and only one of them is yours for the day.

All four leave from the same quay at the same hour and sail the same coast. Yiannis has Anemodochi; the other three are skippered by people who grew up in this harbour.

  1. A white sloop under main and headsail crossing dark open water, whole boat in frame, low green coast behind.

    Anemodochi

    Ανεμοδόχη

    The whole day, sailed properly. The oldest boat and the one Yiannis takes himself. Eight people is a lot of hands and she will use all of them if you want to.

    Length
    11.4 m
    Built
    2003, refitted 2021
    Rig
    Masthead sloop · Yanmar 30 hp
    Below
    One cabin, two berths, heads
    Guests
    Eight
    Day
    €68009:00–18:30, the boat
    Sunset
    €280three hours, from 18:00
  2. A traditional Greek wooden boat with a small white wheelhouse lying in shallow clear turquoise water off a rocky shore.

    Kavouromana

    Καβουρομάνα

    A slow day close in, engine only. A wooden trehandiri with no rig and no hurry. She goes where the sailing boats cannot, and she stops more often.

    Length
    9.2 m
    Built
    1979, rebuilt 2018
    Rig
    None · Perkins 42 hp
    Below
    Open boat, awning, no heads
    Guests
    Six
    Day
    €52009:00–18:30, the boat
    Sunset
    €240three hours, from 18:00
  3. A single white sloop under sail alone on flat deep-blue open water, seen from high on the shore, no other boat in sight.

    Steriani

    Στεριανή

    An overnight for two. Named by a skipper who never goes ashore. Leave at four, eat at anchor, sleep where you stopped and come back the following midday.

    Length
    12.6 m
    Built
    2016
    Rig
    Fractional sloop · Volvo 40 hp
    Below
    Two double cabins, two heads
    Guests
    Six by day, four sleeping
    Day
    €88009:00–18:30, the boat
    Sunset
    €360three hours, from 18:00
  4. A sailing catamaran seen from directly above, both hulls and the trampoline foredeck clear, lying over pale turquoise shallows.

    Diplokarina

    Διπλοκαρίνα

    A family, and a flat deck. Two hulls, so she does not heel and nobody is nervous. Shade over the whole cockpit and a ladder off each stern.

    Length
    12.9 m · 7.2 m beam
    Built
    2019
    Rig
    Sloop · twin 45 hp
    Below
    Four double cabins, four heads
    Guests
    Ten
    Day
    €1,18009:00–18:30, the boat
    Sunset
    €460three hours, from 18:00

Κράτηση · ask about a date

Pick a date and a boat. We will tell you whether it is free.

This page cannot see the calendar, so it will never tell you a date is available. What it will do is work the price out from the rates above and write the whole enquiry for you, so Yiannis can answer it with one word.

Boat
Anemodochi · 11.4 m sloop
Date
not chosen yet
Sailing
Full day, 09:00–18:30
Published rate
€680 the boat
Guests
6
Each, €680 ÷ 6
about €113
Total to ask about
€680
Call instead

Nothing is booked and nothing is charged here. No deposit is taken to hold a date, and the price above is the published rate for the boat — there is no per-person supplement and no bar bill at the end.

The side deck and cockpit of a sailing yacht: scrubbed teak, coiled sheets, polished winches, the main furled on its boom and the wheel behind.
Sheets coiled, winches clean, the main flaked on the boom. This is a boat on an ordinary evening alongside, not on a brochure day.

Επί του σκάφους · true of all four

The same rules on every boat.

Skipper
One on each, licensed, and the only crew. Which means lunch is late if the wind is good.
On board
Lifejackets for everyone plus child sizes, ladder, freshwater shower, masks and snorkels, shade over the cockpit.
Included
Fuel, lunch, water, beer, wine, coffee, towels. There is nothing extra to pay at the end of the day.
Not included
Getting to the harbour. There is parking behind the ice house; it is free after 09:00.
Children
Welcome on all four, easiest on Diplokarina. Under five is hard on a nine-hour day, and we will say so on the phone.
Overnights
Steriani only, and quoted by the night when you ask. There is no published rate for it because it depends where you want to go.
Paying
Cash or card on the quay, on the day. No deposit is taken to hold a date.

Ο καιρός · the wind

The meltemi decides this, not us and not you.

We look at the forecast at eight the night before and message you then, not at nine the next morning while you are standing on the quay with a bag. If we cancel, you pay nothing. If you cancel, you also pay nothing, because nothing has been taken.

0–3 Bft
We motor more than we sail. Flat, hot, very good for swimming and for people who are nervous. Kavouromana is at her best.
4–5 Bft
The day these boats are for. Sails up by ten, both coves, everyone gets wet on the way out.
6 Bft
We go east instead of west and stay in the lee. Shorter day, still a good one, and the catamaran stays alongside.
7+ Bft
Nobody goes. You will hear from us the previous evening, and we will suggest the day after.

Ανεμοδόχη · Vrysteni

Tell us the day and how many. That is the whole conversation.

Yiannis answers between services and again after eight in the evening, when the boats are tied up and the phone is dry.

+30 690 000 0202